« Tenue correcte exigée », quand la mode devient un plaidoyer

« Votre style est la manifestation extérieure de ce que vous êtes et non une illusion qui masque vos doutes. Le meilleur look au monde, c’est celui qui laisse transparaître sans friction une belle personnalité. » (Le guide de l’homme stylé même mal rasé, Geoffrey Bruyère et Benoît Wojtenka, 2013) Après un tableau du jardin d’Eden représentant Eve croquant la pomme, l’exposition commence par un mur de citations très éclectiques. Cette mise en jambe donne le ton pour la suite.

Du 1er décembre 2016 au 23 avril 2017, le musée des Arts Déco présente l’exposition « Tenue correcte exigée, quand le vêtement fait scandale ». Il s’agit d’un parcours de deux étages sur le thème du code vestimentaire et de la transgression. S’il aura échappé à peu de personnes que le sujet est d’actualité, il est aussi bon de rappeler que les esclandres vestimentaires sont loin d’être nouveaux. C’est ainsi que l’exposition propose de présenter les scandales de la mode depuis le XIVème siècle. Le projet a été conçu par Denis Bruna tandis que la scénographie est signée Constance Guisset.

Tenue2

Très concrètement, le visiteur est invité à se balader entre les vitrines où sont présentés des vêtements et des accessoires qui ont su faire parler d’eux. Cela va du manteau en poil de gorille à la combinaison-pyjama en soie pour homme. C’est aussi l’occasion de s’émerveiller sur l’abondance de tissus des robes d’époques qui semblent désormais bien anciennes… Et de s’étonner sur l’ampleur des béances et des décolletés d’une époque soudainement bien plus proche. Des explications et des remises en contexte assurent le fil rouge. La chronologie est cependant assez difficile à suivre pour les novices de la mode. Ces derniers seront sans doute surpris quand ils reconnaîtront certains éléments de leur garde-robe derrière la vitre. L’exemple le plus emblématique est probablement l’espace consacré aux baskets (comme les All Stars de Converse). Chaque chaussure est précédée de sa grande sœur ce qui permet de constater leur frappante similitude. Les supports sont multiples et se répondent, la vidéo prend le relais du texte qui lui-même complète l’objet exposé. C’est ainsi que passe un extrait du film Le Grand blond avec une chaussure noire où l’on voit Pierre Richard hébété devant Mireille Darc portant la fameuse robe noire particulièrement décolletée dans le dos. Le court extrait passe sur un écran situé à quelques mètres de la robe exposée. Les extraits ne se cantonnent pas à la fiction comme en témoigne l’interview de Jean Paul Gaultier parlant de la jupe pour homme, ici aussi la vidéo passe à proximité des pièces de couture en question.

« Tenue correcte exigée » n’est donc pas un cours d’histoire de la mode et de sa transgression. Il s’agit bien plus d’une approche thématique mettant en relief la norme plus ou moins implicitement endossée par le vêtement au fil des époques. Le champ couvert a beau être très vaste, la synthèse a été bien faite ce qui permet d’apprécier les objets exposés sans se perdre dans une mer d’informations tout en ayant de la matière pour comprendre ce qui est donné à voir. A cela s’ajoute une très grande modernité scénographique, notamment au niveau des éclairages ce qui plonge d’emblée le public dans une ambiance à part.

Bref une exposition ouverte à tous et surtout très ouverte d’esprit. « Tenue correcte exigée, quand le vêtement fait scandale », du 1er décembre 2016 au 23 avril 2017, au musée des Arts Déco.

Image de couverture : ©ArtsDécoratifs

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  • 23 mars 2017 à 5 h 55 min
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    Hands down, Apple’s app store wins by a mile. It’s a huge selection of all sorts of apps vs a rather sad selection of a handful for Zune. Microsoft has plans, especially in the realm of games, but I’m not sure I’d want to bet on the future if this aspect is important to you. The iPod is a much better choice in that case.

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  • 23 mars 2017 à 6 h 35 min
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    The new Zune browser is surprisingly good, but not as good as the iPod’s. It works well, but isn’t as fast as Safari, and has a clunkier interface. If you occasionally plan on using the web browser that’s not an issue, but if you’re planning to browse the web alot from your PMP then the iPod’s larger screen and better browser may be important.

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  • 24 mars 2017 à 4 h 45 min
    Permalink

    If you’re still on the fence: grab your favorite earphones, head down to a Best Buy and ask to plug them into a Zune then an iPod and see which one sounds better to you, and which interface makes you smile more. Then you’ll know which is right for you.

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  • 24 mars 2017 à 5 h 24 min
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    I’ll gear this review to 2 types of people: current Zune owners who are considering an upgrade, and people trying to decide between a Zune and an iPod. (There are other players worth considering out there, like the Sony Walkman X, but I hope this gives you enough info to make an informed decision of the Zune vs players other than the iPod line as well.)

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    If you’re still on the fence: grab your favorite earphones, head down to a Best Buy and ask to plug them into a Zune then an iPod and see which one sounds better to you, and which interface makes you smile more. Then you’ll know which is right for you.

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  • 25 mars 2017 à 6 h 44 min
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  • 31 mars 2017 à 7 h 07 min
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    If you’re still on the fence: grab your favorite earphones, head down to a Best Buy and ask to plug them into a Zune then an iPod and see which one sounds better to you, and which interface makes you smile more. Then you’ll know which is right for you.

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    Permalink

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  • 31 mars 2017 à 12 h 58 min
    Permalink

    If you’re still on the fence: grab your favorite earphones, head down to a Best Buy and ask to plug them into a Zune then an iPod and see which one sounds better to you, and which interface makes you smile more. Then you’ll know which is right for you.

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  • 31 mars 2017 à 13 h 38 min
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    This is getting a bit more subjective, but I much prefer the Zune Marketplace. The interface is colorful, has more flair, and some cool features like ‘Mixview’ that let you quickly see related albums, songs, or other users related to what you’re listening to. Clicking on one of those will center on that item, and another set of « neighbors » will come into view, allowing you to navigate around exploring by similar artists, songs, or users. Speaking of users, the Zune « Social » is also great fun, letting you find others with shared tastes and becoming friends with them. You then can listen to a playlist created based on an amalgamation of what all your friends are listening to, which is also enjoyable. Those concerned with privacy will be relieved to know you can prevent the public from seeing your personal listening habits if you so choose.

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    Permalink

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  • 1 avril 2017 à 7 h 03 min
    Permalink

    Apple now has Rhapsody as an app, which is a great start, but it is currently hampered by the inability to store locally on your iPod, and has a dismal 64kbps bit rate. If this changes, then it will somewhat negate this advantage for the Zune, but the 10 songs per month will still be a big plus in Zune Pass’ favor.

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  • 1 avril 2017 à 7 h 46 min
    Permalink

    If you’re still on the fence: grab your favorite earphones, head down to a Best Buy and ask to plug them into a Zune then an iPod and see which one sounds better to you, and which interface makes you smile more. Then you’ll know which is right for you.

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  • 1 avril 2017 à 22 h 21 min
    Permalink

    Hands down, Apple’s app store wins by a mile. It’s a huge selection of all sorts of apps vs a rather sad selection of a handful for Zune. Microsoft has plans, especially in the realm of games, but I’m not sure I’d want to bet on the future if this aspect is important to you. The iPod is a much better choice in that case.

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  • 1 avril 2017 à 23 h 00 min
    Permalink

    Apple now has Rhapsody as an app, which is a great start, but it is currently hampered by the inability to store locally on your iPod, and has a dismal 64kbps bit rate. If this changes, then it will somewhat negate this advantage for the Zune, but the 10 songs per month will still be a big plus in Zune Pass’ favor.

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    Hands down, Apple’s app store wins by a mile. It’s a huge selection of all sorts of apps vs a rather sad selection of a handful for Zune. Microsoft has plans, especially in the realm of games, but I’m not sure I’d want to bet on the future if this aspect is important to you. The iPod is a much better choice in that case.

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  • 2 avril 2017 à 7 h 10 min
    Permalink

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